29 April 2016 – Swakopmund to Kamanjab

29 April 2016 – Swakopmund to Kamanjab, via Hentiesbaai, Skeleton Coast Park, Palmwag and Kamanjab

We left Swakopmund at 7.15.  It was still slightly dark.  There was a light drizzle from the mist that hang over the area.  The mist only lifted at about 10.30.

The road is excellent all the way to the Skeleton Coast Park (Skp).  It is called a salt road, here.  Not tarred but hard and smoother than tar.  It was slightly wet and it really sticks to the bakkie. See some pics later.

Hentiesbaai stretches over a large area and many large new houses are built.  We filled up with diesel here at R9.55 (50 ppm). Paid per credit card (could not in Kamanjab, cash only).

dull landscapes

The landscape between Swakopmund and Henties Bay is dull.  Sand, and flat, and the mist did not make it better.  We entered the Dorob National Park.

Very much of the same!

Just like there are no ugly dogs, there are no ugly landscapes! Bland, flat, plain,... yes.

We saw two shipwrecks.

We saw crystals being sold next to the road. Not by people!; just sitting there on makeshift tables.  The prices are N$20-50.  But there are ‘honesty boxes’ to leave the money in. In this case old tins or peanut butter jar. I realised it is salt and was half honest and left N$10.

We reached Skeleton Coast Park. A sign said no entry without a permit. Fortunately permits are available at the gate, and for free. The landscapes vary dramatically, but it is mostly bland, but impressively so.  From sandy, to gravel-covered, or large stones, from white, yellow, brown, to white, but the skies always blue.

These are photos of Walvis Bay. The stretch along the waterfront was quite exotic.  I think i posted this already.  I like the flamingoes, however.

Very few animals, but we saw jackal twice.






We left Skeleton Coast Park at Sprinbokwasser. I wished it was 'car washer'.

The landscape became more interesting.  The roads weren’t as nice, somewhat rutted with large gravel stones, and loose.  We saw Welwitschia plants, which were a highlight of the day.  Before Palmwag the mopane trees started appearing.  Here we bought firewood from kids and also gave away some of our snacks. It was quite a scene of jubilation.  Stones and crystals and some crafts are also available along the road, mostly without the owner in sight.  I did not want to take anything and just leave money; it did not feel right. There where no 'container' for money.

It's wind, not a hair style.

We entered the Grootberg pass.  Not much of a pass but beautiful scenery, especially on your way to Kamanjab

We also saw gemsbok, and elephant dung and elephant plant damage where they have eaten. And road signs warning us of elephants; but no elephants.

We ended up in Kamanjab as accommodation further west were not available. We had a few drinks at Oppikoppi Lodge, nice place,  And then went to sleep where we booked in.  Once again, i saw that you get what you paid for.  We paid little...and that's what we got!  But i wont post names here.  The Kamanjab area is worth seeing.  

In Kamanjab i got no internet worth using.  We are now one day in Ruacana already so i am one day late.  I hope to catch up tonight.  He we have wifi but very slow and decided to connect through my phone and that was MUCH faster.

We saw Ruacana falls yesterday and i sent out some pics via Whatsapp.  Today (1 May) we drive out for the day to Epupa Falls, we'll do about 300km round trip.

Diesel is still < R10 per liter.  My fuel consumption from in the 10km/l to about 9.5; probably due to 4x4 driving.

29 April

KAMANJAB.  We arrived here at about 4pm, saw beautiful sights,  and some blank (sic)  one's.  No problems so far. 
No connection to laptop,  so I typed in Word,  hoping to post later.
Driving to Ruacana,  via Opuwo.  Going to visit a mission  station I lived at 35 years  ago.  Will post pics of then and now.  If all works out. 
We leave  at 7am. SA  time.  One hour earlier in Namibia.

Connectivity

Connectivity - Data, signal, calls, etc

We bought sim cards in Ariamsvlei for R10.  And 'airtime' that could be converted to calls, data, etc.  No id necessary.

The code you have type in (from the little 'scratch card') is entered without # marks where it is shown, but have to end with a # mark, where but the # sign is not shown.  This took 'some asking' to get connected.

My sim card was too big, so i bought a new one in KMH, for R7.00.  Had to show id and sign a form.  No address needed.  Here i bought a 'bundle' for N$30 (N$ = R1).  This is only valid for a week, but you get something like 6000 seconds to talk (1.7 hours apprx), 700sms, i think 1 gig of data.  So VERY cheap.  This means 4 x R30 for four weeks. If there is a catch, it is that there is very little 'signal' except in towns, and none in the outlying places.  Also, it seems we can't phone out of Namibia (yet).  We'll sort that out at the next MTC (maybe).

We get Whatsapp as normal (probably Google Account based?).

Marie's no: +264813401574

My no:       +264818089721

28 April 2016 - Keetmanshoop to Swakopmund

28 April 2016 - Keetmanshoop to Swakopmund (via Mariental, Maltahohe, Solitaire, Walvis Bay)

This is not the moon, its the Namib desert.

We saw many diverse landscapes, all known as the Namib.  Stick around and see more.

We drove 808 km from KMH to Swakopmund. We filled up diesel in Mariental, and drove tar road to Maltahohe, both small towns, the first more industrial looking.  I paid R11.23 for diesel in George and only R9.24 in Mariental, a nice surprise.

The road was excellent tar rod to Maltahohe.

The sun came up at 7.10 and was quite spectacular through the clouds. The landscapes was bland and flat. From Maltahohe the road was gravel and somewhat corrugated; not too nice to drive on.  In the distance we could see a small mountain range.  As we got into that the scenery changed and was quite beautiful.  We entered the Namib Naukluft Park.

Mountains of all colours could be seen. Sometimes with vegetation, often without. Thorn trees cover many of the valleys between mountains.

More Namib Naukluft Park scenes

We passed 23.5 degrees south, the 'Traffic' of Capricorn...the traffic was awful! Five tourists groups posing!

Diesel: although maps and GPS show fuel available at Asab and Gibeon (between KMH and Mariental), there was no diesel available; not even pumps.  We had to fill from our 25 liter can.

More Namib scenes (top right is Solitaire)

The road from Maltahohe to Solitaire in some places are rutted, similar out of Solitaire, but the last 100km to Walvis Bay is excellent. The number of vehicles from Solitaire to Walvis Bay was quite high.

Walvis Bay has an industrial town' feeling but a beautiful waterfront neighbourhood with flamingos close-by in the water. North towards Swakopmund, expensive housing developments are growing fast.

Swakopmund seems to be an affluent town, and sprawling!  It extends over many kilometers and is the most vibrant of the few Namibian towns i saw.

Prices:  food and drinks are very similar in price as in SA.  Fuel is cheaper in Namibia. Urbock beer is as expensive in Namibia as in SA (N$70.55 for 6 (340ml)). I pay for my good taste.

Temperature was 36 C in the interior and 17 C in Swakopmund at 5 pm.

Tomorrow North along the coast, sleeping at Kamanjab, in Damaraland.

27 April 2016 - Riemvasmaak to Keetmanshoop

27 April 2016 - Riemvasmaak to Keetmanshoop

On the road between Riemvasmaak and Lutzputs

Mostly the scenery was not spectacular but there was the occasional beautiful spots. The roads were still gravel (i chose these specifically), today more loose, with rocky spots.  So i left the tyres at 2.2 and drove in 4x4.  Nice easy trip at max speed of 80 -100 km/h.

519 kms.  We always drive a little bit more but i stop this recorder after reaching our destination. The ave speed gets influenced by stops as well.

We crossed the border (Ariamsvlei side). 12 minutes RSA side and probably 30 minutes Namibia side.  We did not have to show:

• registration papers
• proof of ownership
• proof of insurance

Little detail to checks of what you take in.  Total cost R242.00 on Namibian side.

The landscape was mostly bland, but some very nice hills "100 km" before Keetmanshoop. Good tar road without shoulders, mostly 120 km/h, allowed.  One speed trap.  I drive on speed control...it's so nice.

Big blue skies, and big green sign posts.  The Namibian 'picnic stops' are often bland, but impeccably clean.

Keetmanshoop's 'car guards' are as as wine-soaked as those in Knysna, but more irritating and persistent. Poverty seems common.

Tomorrow we have a long trip, driving from Keetmanshoop to Swakopmund, 700-plus kms. Keetmanshoop - Mariental, Maltahohe, Bulspoort, Solitaire, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund.

PS...we saw diesel for R10.07 today and we paid R11.23 in George.  I'll post more on this, later.

Ps...I wonder who Keetman was?  And what he hoped for.

26 April 2016 - Riemvasmaak

26 April 2016 - Riemvasmaak

Riemvasmaak (rvm) is an old "iXhoiSan" word for 'mixed feelings'. I don't think anyone can think of rvm and not have mixed feelings.

Rvm-kop, from far.

The rvm area was a military training site after the locals were made to leave the area.  Many were re-settled in Damaraland and were given the land back after the current government took over.  At rvm there must be about 100 - 200 families living.  Some people herd goats, there is a clinic, school, coffee shop, very small 'general store'.  Also 4x4 routes and the hot springs.

We booked to stay at the hot springs. Cheap; less than R 600.  The exterior looks somewhat interesting but the inside is really rudimentary. Although there is hot water, heated by gas, there was no gas. The overall experience, however, is spectacular, however.

The spring is situated in th Molopo river, 12 km above its confluence with the Orange river.

Pool at hot spring

Riemvasmaak accommodation  (1 of 4)

The cliffs are spectacular, probably 80 - 100 m high, with lots of bird life and hyraxes (dassies). The pool is chlorinated although fresh water run in continuously.  It's clean, without rubbish lying around. No other people were present...nice to have it all for yourself.

The Riemvasmaak landscape speaks for itself.  The night sky was crystal clear in an totally lightless environment.

We left early, about 7 am (top right pic) as we wanted to get to Keetmanshoop.  The signage, however, was poor and we had to turn around as we missed the unmarked turnoff to Namibia.  We only lost 30 minutes.  It takes 60 minutes from getting up out of bed, shaved, showered, coffee, packing, extra coffee and breakfast and lunch for the road, make-up...;-)). You must see me with lipstick.

26 April 2016 - Carnarvon to Riemvasmaak

26 April 2016 - Carnarvon to Riemvasmaak

Road between Carnarvon and Van Wyksvlei. There are miles and miles of arrow-straight roads.

Wide open spaces cannot really capture 'how wide' the open spaces are.  We travelled on gravel roads most of the day and the roads can only be described as excellent.  You can do an easy 80 - 100 kmh, safely.  From Van Wyksvlei (vwv) the gravel changed and was more loose but the road still good. 

We drove mostly NW, only 403 kms.  Ave speed 57 km/h.  It never feels that slow!

We dropped the tyre pressure from 2.2 to 1.9 and it really felt much softer on the gravel when it was rutted (sinkplaat).

To call vwv a one horse town would really be giving it too much credit. The town shows the unemployment that we know is rampant in the countryside. There was however, many EPWP workers cleaning.

One horse town it may well be, but the people are friendly and the donkeys numerous.  I love donkeys. It was nice to see them roam freely.

From Vanwyksvlei to Keimoes we saw the most spectacular views.  I want to say, none of the pics are 'photoshopped' but the camera is set on 'vivid'.  The colours are more lively than real, but not much.

We reached Riemvasmaak at about 2pm.

Loxton Church

And a small green garden.

More Loxton views

I like these poles in the road,  excellent idea in the times of donkey carts.

Loxton Views

Going towards Carnarvon.

Sandstone church

Different times,  different churches.  Beaufort West.

25 April -  Knysna to Carnarvon

We had a wonderful slow drive from Knysna to Carnarvon. Mostly tar road but also good gravel.

Beautiful colours - poplar trees that are quite common in the 'wet spots'.

456 km drive in 6 h 30 min. We had gravel between Beaufort West (BW) and Loxton, but also some tar in this section. Gravel was good.  I wanted to deflate my tyres from 2.2 on the gravel, but did not.  Always wondering when i'll see the next compressor!

Our first coffee stop, S of BW.

We saw nice scenery.  Meiringspoort is always special, and then the stretch between Beaufort West and Loxton also had spectacular views.

Meiringspoort

Meiringspoort

Area S of Loxton. It rained recently.

Loxton looks like a nice little town.

The drier flatter landscape S of Carnarvon.  We also saw our first animals.

Dogs are not nervous in Carnarvon, we saw many walking the main roads.  All VERY peaceful. Many small businesses, also some familiar ones like a Spar and Standard bank.  Friendly people as well.  Lots of B&Bs.

Both Loxton and Carnarvon looked quite clean and well maintained, but with a typical rural feeling.  Lots of bottle stores and wind pump "fixing places".

Tomorrow we are on our way to Riemvasmaak.  We'll fill up diesel in Kakamas and hope to buy dried peaches.

25 April 2016         -          minus 2 days

-       2 days to go.

Preparations are going well.  

Packed clothes, etc. Also food and whatever goes with 'food'.  All went into four small crates.  Crates 1 and 2 are identical.  So when 1 is used up, we move onto crate 2.  So crate 2 only appears after crate 1 is 'consumed'.  The crates are 'stackable', i.e. fitting into each other. Crate D is Daily, and crate 3 holds 'make-up' ;-)) 

Battery operated fridge, plugging into 'cigarette lighter'.  But also 220V when available.

Back seat taken out, only took 10 minutes...LOTS of space for fridge, luggage, etc, all the things that have to stay dust free.

All the things i hope not to use, but i'll be glad to have it when i need it.

Tomorrow last things will be packed.